Warming up
After warming up, we moved onto a problem we had tried last time we were at Tooheys. Next to 'The Mushroom' is Magic Mushroom. Sit Start at the back wall on a side pull and undercut, move onto a good hold with your right hand, stretch up as in photo.......
.......up with right hand then into the small hold with your left on the roof, not the drilled hold of 'The Mushroon'....
.......then reach over and up for a pinch (told you it was hot!).......
............left hand up and match on roof........
........then left foot up and push down with your heel.....
.......rock over and mantle, the crux, well it was tonight when the rock felt a little greasy....
......and mantle over to finish
We think this problem goes at about V4, maybe a bit harder in the summer than the winter when friction is better, and it needs friction on the top. What do you think?
Round the other side of this boulder is a good problem starting under the roof and moving up to where Nick has his right foot. Then its onto the face, onto better low holds as in photo,
left foot up high onto front of boulder and slap up for a small side pull. Right foot up, squeeze in and slap again for top.
New camera today, so hopefully better pictures from Coil Preservation on Sunday. Happy Climbing/bouldering.
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